Tuc Dup, the 'Tora Bora' of Vietnam's Mekong Delta |
I’m approaching some kind of freak of geology. The Mekong Delta is generally flat, but I’m staring at one enormous, gargantuan mountain of rocks. As our 4X4 drives closer, I see that this isn’t a pile of just rocks, it’s a pile of massive boulders. Somehow, nature piled all of these massive boulders here onto one place, forming a towering hill that rises high above the flat expanse of the surrounding landscape.
This is Tuc Dup, one of the few high vantage points in the Mekong Delta. It’s not tall enough to be classified as a mountain. But its higher altitude gives it not only a great view of the delta beneath, it also made it easily defended. The solid rock boulders that form the hill made superior natural defenses. This made Tuc Dup an ideal location for a rebel stronghold; the Viet Cong's 'Tora Bora' in the delta.
From the bottom, I look up at this jagged, intimidating hill. I know that climbing this will be a good workout. As I start up, I can see a large flag of old painted on a boulder, the former yellow and red striped flag of the Republic of Vietnam. This is a rare sight in today’s Vietnam. The former South Vietnamese flag is rarely seen anywhere in public. But the flag now has a black 'X' painted across it, to remind visitors that the south didn’t win the war.
A long
curving walkway of wooden steps eventually runs out, and soon I enter one of
the many cave entrances of this strange hill. With the boulders piled every
which way, the large gaps between each boulder are large enough to form natural
passageways and caves. The former soldiers here managed to chip away the rock to
widen some openings, and make some of the walkways more accessible.
The
passageways form an elaborate network. I make my way through, rock hopping from
boulder to boulder. Some of the areas are difficult to fit through. Like the Cu
Chi tunnels, some openings are tight for an American, but easier for the
shorter and thinner Vietnamese.
Entering
one section, I find wood was brought in to make
platforms, to make the caves more livable. Daylight reaches in, and I look above to see parted boulders form a natural skylight. Dead vines hang
downward along the heavy rocks. I’ll bet they used to put containers out here
to catch water during the rainy season. With no plumbing, it was a real chore
for the VC to carry water all the way up here every day.
Weaving
through the cave network, there are openings here and there that lead back out
to the hill’s exterior. Reaching one, I climb out onto a boulder and look at the
surrounding landscape. Green farming fields below stretch all the way to the
horizon. Behind me, one of the larger boulders has a lot of holes and chips in
it. A sign near it translates as, “Bomb Trace Marks”.
Even a
US made 500 lb bomb dropped from above, didn’t do much damage to this 30 ton solid rock boulder. So
despite numerous bombardments, the Viet Cong held onto Tuc Dup for years. During
the course of the war there was so much heavy bombing here, that the locals
gave Tuc Dup the nickname of ‘$2million dollar hill'.
This ended with a final battle, and according to the government version here,
the siege and fighting for Tuc Dup raged from November 16th, 1968
until March 24th, 1969. The VC in these caves faced both American and ARVN forces. Helicopters and jets attacked from the
air, with ground troops and tanks attacking by land. This hill of boulders became a sort of 'Alamo' for the Viet Cong.
View of the surrounding countryside from upper cave opening |
Reaching
another overlook, I peer down at the land in front of the strange hill. The
unexploded bombs have been removed from the earth, and now it’s a family park.
Vietnamese families come here to relax on weekends these days.
Captured US made weapons on display |
There are some small restaurants and cafes, most of which have hammocks hanging in them for their patrons to relax. There is a pond with pedal boats, and an enclosure with live alligators.
To
remind visitors that this is more than a park, at the base of the hill sits a
small museum, with a large bomb crater out front. Filled with the usual
captured small arms, the place is empty. Rather than look at war relics, the
visiting families would rather eat in the cafés, and spend the afternoon
relaxing in a hammock.
This
is precisely where I find my guide Nga. Since she didn’t want to make the long
climb up the hill with me, she’s been reclining in a café hammock, chatting
away with a local waitress.
Old bomb crater outside museum at base of the hill |
Nga is one of my more interesting translators I’ve had in Vietnam. Besides guiding me around the delta, she also occasionally works as an actress. On the way here as we passed a village, she told me, “I was in movie here, days ago.” The film was a love story, and she had a supporting role in the film.
She
described for me another movie she acted in, when she played the role of a
captured Viet Cong cadre. In that difficult role, she had to act in an interrogation and torture scene. That wasn’t an easy role, that’s for sure.
Hammocks where Tuc Dup's visitors relax |
As we are on our way out and heading for the 4X4, we spy a shooting range, and stop in for a look. This is much like the firing range I saw in Cu Chi, except that the prices are lower. Whether firing an AK-47 or a semi-automatic AR-15, the price per bullet is only 10,000 Dong (about 55 cents.) I’m not surprised its cheaper here, since Tuc Dup is remote and gets far fewer visitors than Cu Chi. I look toward the targets, and I’m amused to see that between the firing line and the backstop, there are neat rows of green plants. They are growing some kind of crop out in the middle of the firing range.
Since
I’ve already shot a few rounds when I went to Cu Chi, I decline the offer to
shoot here. But I’m surprised when my petite guide Nga speaks up, saying, “I
want to try.”
The Tuc Dup firing range, where crops grow?? |
She buys some bullets, and takes her place at the firing line. The muzzle of the AK is bolted to a post, in order to keep wayward shooters from firing high and out of the range. With the assault rifle loaded, Nga takes aim at a target of a tiger.
POW! Her first shot rings out, and she giggles nervously. Then she takes her second shot. POW! She stops, lets go of the weapon, then walks to a bench and sits down. “I’m scared,” she says.
Nga
now lives in a Vietnam without war, and guns these days are a rarity, not
available to the general public. Unlike in the past, when the VC fighting force
included women like her, Vietnamese women today rarely touch firearms. “First
time in my life I shoot,” she tells me. “I a little scared.”
As a
child growing up in the Mekong Delta, she had survived the war. She
was so young that at the time, she didn’t really know what was going on. Meanwhile, others
in her family were involved in the conflict.
“My
grandfather was VC,” Nga told me. He had been a commander in the delta until
he died in 1966. The story handed down through her family, is that he was
killed by Americans. They say that his death had been witnessed by her uncle. She tells me her uncle was so frightened by what he saw, that he had wet himself.
With
such a terrible story to tell, I would think that Nga would hold a grudge
against Americans like me, and she doesn’t. She had never known her
grandfather, and as a devout Buddhist, she takes the route of forgiveness. It
also probably helps that her grandfather’s side eventually won the war. For
Nga, like so many other Vietnamese I’ve already spoken to, the war was so long
ago, and is better left in the past.
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