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| Thousands of Khmers crowd the riverfront for the dragon boat races |
I’m
leaving Cambodia soon, and a huge crowd has gathered. A mass of humanity stretches
for several blocks. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen in Southeast Asia.
But this
isn’t a riot. And it’s not a political rally. Thousands and thousands of
Khmers, many with their families, have come to the Phnom Penh riverside to
watch the dragon boat races.
Over 300 colorful
dragon boats, resembling long outrigger canoes, from all over the country will
race and compete for glory and honor on the river. Farmers from far flung
provinces have just completed harvesting their fields, and traveled all the way
here to celebrate or participate.
2 - 3 dozen men crowd into each dragon boat, all wearing matching colored t-shirts.
A flag bearing the number of their rowing team flies off the back of each, flapping
in the wind as each strong stroke by the crew drives them towards the finish
line.
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| The dragon boat races are part of the annual Water Festival in Phnom Penh |
Dragon
boats have a long history in Cambodia. The event commemorates a legendary naval
battle during the reign of King Jayavarman VII. This Khmer King that reigned
over Angkor Wat led them to victory on the waters against the neighboring Cham
empire.
Taking
place over 3 days in November, the dragon boat races are part of the annual
Water Festival, marking the time when the Mekong River downriver swells, and
the Tonle Sap River that meets it reverses its course. Upriver becomes
downriver.
Like
everything else that was popular, fun and traditional in Cambodia, this
festival was banned during the Khmer Rouge communist years. It was revived in
1990, and the festival and races have grown exponentially ever since.
I attended
a wedding in Phnom Penh before, and that was also a joyous occasion. But this
huge festival gives me a different feeling.
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| More than 300 dragon boats take part in the races on the Tonle Sap River |
As I watch
families enjoy the festival, I get a vibe that I have never felt in Cambodia before.
Mass
happiness.
In my six
months here in Cambodia, I had spent much of my time traveling through the old
war zones, speaking to survivors. These people had survived oppression under
the French, the civil war with the Lon Nol dictatorship, war against the
Vietnamese, and worst of all, the Khmer Rouge genocide.
Talking
to these resilient survivors about those horrible days was not cheerful work.
But here
at the dragon boat races, I sense the happiness that the people of Cambodia
truly deserve. This is their festival. Done by them, for them. It’s a purely
Khmer tradition that they can all enjoy.
That
night, I return to the riverside, and see another unexpected sight. Elaborately
lighted boats. Decorated with thousands of what westerners would call ‘Christmas
tree lights’, thousands of bulbs form huge floating figures, such as nagas and other
Buddhist icons. Impressive.
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| Lighted boats illuminate the river at night during the Water Festival |
To close
the event, the night sky lights up with fireworks over the lighted boats and
barges.
As I
leave Cambodia, I’m glad that this festival is my last experience in this
fascinating country.
The Khmer people I’ve met during my time here have endured
the worst, but this country is on the upturn.
There are
problems, to be sure. But they are at peace.
Their
darkest days are behind them. I hope so. I pray so.
I can
feel it. There is hope for the future here.
